Fifteen minutes before Lauren Serota’s Lufthansa flight landed in Riyadh, the female passengers stood and moved to the bathroom. Most had been wearing Western clothes — jeans, blouses, and gold jewelry. They returned in black abayas and head scarves (hijabs), some wearing face coverings (niqabs). The context switch was dramatic and immediate. Serota pulled her own hijab up over her head as the plane hit the tarmac, and she resolved to pay attention.
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